The FS6 does all of that. Yes you have to use a TRS cable. Or else NO pedal will work with your amp. You can set the FS6 for so many different things. Its switch can be set momentary or latched, and you can change the polarity. And you can make it 2 single pedals. Like to tap tempos for 2 different delays, or whatever expression.

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Live=
ESP Eclipse II>
Racked - Furman PL-Plus II, Korg rack tuner, EV RE2 wireless, G-Major
Board - NS-2, Vox Clyde Wah>
5150 + 1960AX (Vintage 30s)

One of these Boss FS-6 footswitches might just be the answer to all my problems. I've had 2 different footswitches for my 5150 and I've just bought a third one on behalf of a friend so I'll probably get an FS-6 for myself. No more broken footswitch frustration!

If only Peavey's footswitches were as bulletpoof as their amps

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Rig: http://guitargeek.com/chat/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100910

For those of you who are considering building a Valveking footswitch or having one custom-made, this is the key difference: They use a diode instead of a resistor. Mine works fine now.

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Cort G290 (EMG SAs, 85, Sperzel locking tuners, GraphTech StringSaver saddles)
Loop Master (Digitech Whammy in true bypass loop, tuner out>Boss TU-2)>Dunlop 535Q Wah>Boss NS-2
Effects Loop:
Danelectro EQ>EHX Nano Small Stone>Ibanez FL9>Arion SCH-1>Danelectro Tremolo>Boss DD-6>BBE Sonic Stomp
Peavey ValveKing Head (with custom footswitch) and Marshall JCM 900 1936 2x12 cab

Rig Thread

I know this thread seems dead as can be, and I apologize for better late than never. If in some way this gets to the OP I hope it will help: I build custom switches for various amps. The Peavey VK is a bit picky when it comes to it's useable switches. Your problem is likely one of the following, and yes I know some may repeat other answers you have heard, but obvious can often be the problem.

First, be sure that both the channel select switch and the gain boost switch are in their "in" positions... activated in other words. If they are not, that MAY solve your problem.

If both switches are active and your LEDs come on but you still don't actually switch functions with the foot switch, the problem is likely what I will tell you next.

For LEDs to function properly, they must obviously receive power. The Peavey ValveKing sends 19 volts DC out of the ring and tip connections for the switch. The LEDs in your custom switch may be powered by that voltage. LEDs must be preceded by resistors to keep them from blowing out. If your pedal/switch builder used LEDs with very low voltage limits, they may have had to use a 1kohm or higher resistor. In doing so they may have increased the line resistance so much that not enough power is getting back to the amp through the ground. If that happens, the relays inside the amp will not close when you hit the switch. In effect the amp never "gets the signal" that you are trying to switch. ALSO, it is important to note that LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. Being that it is a diode, current can only travel one way through it. If the person who built your switch was in a rush, it is possible that they reversed the polarity of the LEDs, meaning the current won't flow to the amp. In spite of popular belief I have accidentally wired an LED backward and found that they can light that way, but that no current will get past them. The last possibility is that the amp may require diodes in line instead of or with the resistors in the footswitch.

The solution: Either remove the LEDs and resistors from the equation, connecting your wires directly to the switches without them, or you can have a qualified person check the LEDs and resistors and possibly replace them with appropriate ones which will allow enough current to flow back to the amp to close those relays. Check the polarity of the LEDs. The flat side of the lens/shorter post is the negative side of the LED. Lastly you may need to check with Peavey to determine if diodes are necessary in the circuit. However don't hold your breath waiting for them to help you. They're going to tell you to buy what they made for it. Good luck!

For the OP:

I decided to tinker around a bit with a ValveKing 112 here. I built a two button foot switch. Using the appropriate resistors to protect the LEDs, the two LEDs would light, but no matter the configuration the switches would not operate the amp. As soon as I removed the two resistors from the equation, the LEDs light and the switches now operate the amp properly.

Frankly speaking the LEDs probably won't last very long as a result, but I also checked out a Valve King 2 button switch in photographs and could not find any hint of resistors in them. I don't have a schematic available and doubt Peavey will be so kind as to provide one. In a few of the photos heat shrink tubing is used to cover joints of two wires, but from the shape under the tubing it appears to be a solder joining without resistors. Hope this helps!

Hi,

I thought I got 2-botton stereo foot switch which I need for my peavey Bravo 112, but when I plugged it in it didn't work and on closer inception I notice the pedal is a Peavey valveking/windors foot switch. The seller had switched the packaging (be careful what you buy of the net!) I was about to email the seller to return it but then I thought I could mod this pedal to make it work somehow. I found this tread and it's set me in the right direction, I'll be working on the pedal the next few days and advised what transpires.

Cheers