right heres the deal. I've got a complete set of the 80s Boss half rack series
13... 14units including the power supply

so i need to build mutli foot switch for them. i think im right in thinking all i need are a load of basic foot switches SPST etc.

i wouldnt mind having LEDs for when the foot switches are on.. i'm asusming that i'd need to power the foot switch some how?

because i'll be using a fair few cables i was thinking that in a bid to keep wires to a minimum that i use something like a couple of network cables to run right up close to the rear of the rack mount and then make a distributer box that would split down the network cable to regular jack leads again?
this would also keep jack lead costs down.

what do you guys think?

thiking about it if i need 2 cables for each switch i'd need 26 cores.. network cable are 8 or something.
could keep an eq or the compressor just as a hand switched unit and use a 25core serial cable instead...

As far as I can see, your ideas are pretty solid. I would use SPDT switches instead of SPST.

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The rig:
Schecter C1 Diamond Series (Radioactive)->Hardwire (HW) Chromatic Tuner->Crybaby 535Q->Bad Monkey->HW Metal Distortion->HW Stereo Chorus->HW Stereo Delay/Looper->Fender 15R

On the bench:
Ibanez GSA-60 (deep blue)
Line 6 Spider III

I'm very interested in the whole idea of the network cables and the distribution box. How would you do that?

Very cool idea.

One concern though. I'm one of those true bypass Zionists. I assume these modules use the same FET/buffer switching scheme as the BOSS pedals? I personally hate stacking one buffered pedal/effect on top of another and another and another. Maybe one high quality buffer at the start of a chain is doable, but only when needed - and certainly not 10 buffers in series. Ick. But that's just me, you mileage may vary.

Have you considered using relays to build your breakout box? By relays, I'm talking about 2PDT or even 3 or 4 PDT relay switches. This would serve as a true bypass "wrapper" for each of your modules, and would make it easier for you to change out modules, or other effects, on a whim.

In design, the relays would be part of your breakout box inside the rack, and those relays would be controlled remotely via your simple outboard switch board through a data cable (with LED's lit up via phantom power).

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Gregg | OK Hemingway
Warmoth Strat > Tube Screamer > Line 6 M13 > 100 Watt Marshall 1959 SLX (Plexi)

I didn't think I'd find it so fast!!! I knew I'd seen a schematic/layout for something like this before...

http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/remoteftsw.pdf

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Gregg | OK Hemingway
Warmoth Strat > Tube Screamer > Line 6 M13 > 100 Watt Marshall 1959 SLX (Plexi)

hey guys, totally forgot about this project i put it on the back burner as i needed to have the engine out of my car for a rebuild

thanks for the replies, when i posted it, it was just a rough idea. since then i've kinda drawn up some plans in CAD so i'm now trying to find a company who'll cut and fold sheet metal for me with water or laser (i think its more water these days) so i can get clean edges.

@GMGM

i'm really interested by what your saying, but i'm struggling to imagine it (i think its because its monday and i'm working off a hangover!)

I think youre right about the buffers. I wouldnt expect much else from those units (they're the mini rack mounts from the 80s that boos produced)

so how would it work?

at the moment this is how i see it

guitar > rack > dual terror
............/\
.......foot switch

by what your saying would i run the signal from the guitar into the breakout box and then to the rack units.

so the rack would switch the path of the audio aswell?



serial cables have a fair few cores (supposedly shielded aswell)
all jack leads on foot switches do is switch the uni on and off and no audio travels down those wires.

so my idea would be instead of buying aload of jack lead and jack plugs, i could infact use the 25 core serial cable to make 12 foot switches.

thats the theory for the foot switch anyway. once the cable gets to the rack i can run i into a break out box that'll fit to the back of my rack.
it will be a female serial plug and i'll then run wires from the relavent pins to jack plugs. this should mean that i only need one wire from the foot switch to the rack unit but i'll be able to control all my rack

i'll then work out the distances between the units and be able to make one massive plug on the back of the rack so it'll be like a rack dock where i can pretty much plug and play with my gear.


thanks for your help guys i hope i can get this built soon!!

Yeah, that's the idea.

You know how a normal true bypass box uses a DPDT or 3PDT stomp switch? This is basically just building a bunch of those true bypass loops into your rack's breakout box (except using relays instead of mechanical switches).

But instead of using the regular "mechanical" switches, you'd use DPDT or 3PDT relays. The relays open/close depending on whether you apply voltage to the coil (which you would control using a simple mechanical switch in your pedalboard).

It increases the # of jacks and other parts you'll need, but heck - if you're having a special custom enclosure built - this would be a minimal cost adder!

By the way, have you checked with www.Mouser.com or www.DigiKey.com for enclosures? They both sell products made by Hammond (and others) that might save you some cash on your enclosure needs. Here's just one possibility for a floor box (probably need different dimensions, but they're available in many sizes).

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...iQ6B9VGkxo0%3d

__________________
Gregg | OK Hemingway
Warmoth Strat > Tube Screamer > Line 6 M13 > 100 Watt Marshall 1959 SLX (Plexi)