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  #31  
Old 07.15.06, 2:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by lp_man
That site is really useful thanks for sharing and I'm glad you like the mod! You're the first person to successfully complete it as far as I'm aware!

Did you manage to get a 47pf cap for the clipping diodes?
I'm glad you find that site helpful, if you go back to http://www.musicianshotline.com/archive/archive.asp under "Pedal Power" there is more articles.

I did find the 47pf caps at DigiKey Part No. 338-1084-ND it is a little big, but it works and you are still able to close the pedal

I just fonished the TS-9 mod on my reissue, I like it a lot!!! I happen to have a JRC 4558D on that pedal, i used a 2.4K resistor instead of a 2.2k, that was the closest I had.
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  #32  
Old 07.16.06, 5:36 PM
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Hi guys
I just did the mod to my pedal and finished it off yesterday.
The hardest part is finding all the little parts at the shop. I managed to do it quite easily with out removing the jacks and controls by just laying the circuit board down.
At first it didn't work cos i had some wires touching, sorted that out and it really is a sweet pedal now. I put the switch in so I can change modes.
Haven't had a chance to try it through a cranked amp yet cos I'm in an appartment but it sounds rad so far.

Thanks Lp man
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  #33  
Old 07.17.06, 3:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by markg
Hi guys
I just did the mod to my pedal and finished it off yesterday.
The hardest part is finding all the little parts at the shop. I managed to do it quite easily with out removing the jacks and controls by just laying the circuit board down.
At first it didn't work cos i had some wires touching, sorted that out and it really is a sweet pedal now. I put the switch in so I can change modes.
Haven't had a chance to try it through a cranked amp yet cos I'm in an appartment but it sounds rad so far.

Thanks Lp man
No worries mate, I'm really glad that people are finding it useful
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  #34  
Old 07.21.06, 10:40 AM
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hello LP_man, i firstly want to say how glad i am someone has done something like this as i know zilch about electronics but want to mod pedals,im tempted to buy a ds-1 just to mod it. so thanks for the website.
i am looking at the sweep mod for the crybaby and your sweep cap is different to mine. it looks like the capacitators (i think there caps) in C6 and C8, but have the letters 10h J100 on them. is this normal??my pedal is a GCB-95 crybaby. also some of the resistors are different values but im guessing that doesnt matter right now.will the mod work? and
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  #35  
Old 07.23.06, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jimijonjames
hello LP_man, i firstly want to say how glad i am someone has done something like this as i know zilch about electronics but want to mod pedals,im tempted to buy a ds-1 just to mod it. so thanks for the website.
i am looking at the sweep mod for the crybaby and your sweep cap is different to mine. it looks like the capacitators (i think there caps) in C6 and C8, but have the letters 10h J100 on them. is this normal??my pedal is a GCB-95 crybaby. also some of the resistors are different values but im guessing that doesnt matter right now.will the mod work? and
Different values? Has it been modified before by any chance? It may be the case that you just have an older or newer crybaby than mine, don't suppose you have a picture?

If you get the right capacitor to change it should work fine, it's just finding the right one. There are quite a few sites available that can help you with this, might want to look at this one to start off: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castl...enfuz/wah.html as it has a large number of referance diagrams to check

As for the numbering/letters on the side of them, it's a capacitor code I've not heard of, its usually three didgets and a letter e.g. 103J (more info here: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/capac.htm) but if the board looks the same as mine, chances are the sweep cap will be in the same position but just looks different
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  #36  
Old 07.27.06, 2:46 AM
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Arrow Need Some HELP

hay first post here and i have to say its a great site.

i must suggest that you widen the layout a little....everything seems crunched towards the center IMO

anyways the reason i came here was I have a question about wiring the switch/led assembly into the DS1 board for the Keeley eye/ultra mod.

I'm doing it with the SPDT to switch between them and adding a new 5mm red LED light.

now i get to the part in the site where you say "To wire up, you need to first unsolder the right hand leg of D4 (see diagram below)" [photos] "Next, you just need to solder the left lug wire and the right lug wire together to the right hand side of D4. Simple!"

I don't do much electronic work and that just is going in one ear and out the other..lol

does anyone have a photo of the way its wired up showing the board, LED, and switch?

it would help me out allot.

What I'm starting to think is you take out the D4 leg that's close to the black stripe on it, solder one wire from the switch assembly to that leg on the diode and the other wire from the switch assembly goes into the hole on the board where that leg from D4 originally was.

is that right?

also, i have a SPDT switch but its an "on (off) on" meaning it has 3 positions and not 2...will that work?

it works like a SPDT with the 3 legs and 2 positions..this one just does not make any connections in center position...I just wasn't sure if not having anything connected for that split second in switching the switch would destroy anything on the board.

Thanks for any and all info.
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  #37  
Old 07.27.06, 6:04 AM
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Re: Need Some HELP

Quote:
Originally posted by moody07747
hay first post here and i have to say its a great site.

i must suggest that you widen the layout a little....everything seems crunched towards the center IMO

anyways the reason i came here was I have a question about wiring the switch/led assembly into the DS1 board for the Keeley eye/ultra mod.

I'm doing it with the SPDT to switch between them and adding a new 5mm red LED light.

now i get to the part in the site where you say "To wire up, you need to first unsolder the right hand leg of D4 (see diagram below)" [photos] "Next, you just need to solder the left lug wire and the right lug wire together to the right hand side of D4. Simple!"

I don't do much electronic work and that just is going in one ear and out the other..lol

does anyone have a photo of the way its wired up showing the board, LED, and switch?

it would help me out allot.

What I'm starting to think is you take out the D4 leg that's close to the black stripe on it, solder one wire from the switch assembly to that leg on the diode and the other wire from the switch assembly goes into the hole on the board where that leg from D4 originally was.

is that right?

also, i have a SPDT switch but its an "on (off) on" meaning it has 3 positions and not 2...will that work?

it works like a SPDT with the 3 legs and 2 positions..this one just does not make any connections in center position...I just wasn't sure if not having anything connected for that split second in switching the switch would destroy anything on the board.

Thanks for any and all info.
Funny you should say that, I'm working on a new layout for the next update which also has SD-1 mods.

I'm not sure if an on/off/on would work, but if the on positions act as a regular SPDT I think it should. I've asked Berardurr to chip in to make sure - I have no electronics background either!

I think I might also improve that bit, it is kinda tricky, and the wording is awkward. Anyway, yes you unsolder the side with the black stripe and send that wire to the middle lug of the switch.

You then wire the + side of the LED to the left or right lugs. The longer leg should be positive http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm.

Then send a piece of wire from the last remaining lug and a piece from the other side of the LED (the - side) to the side of D4 that you lifted up.

Hope that helps! I'll take a picture if you are still stuck.

By the way, I'm not sure of the effect on tone by using a 5mm rather than a 3mm, but it is easy enough to change.

-Will
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  #38  
Old 07.27.06, 6:14 AM
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Quote:
berarduur wrote on 07.27.06 12:50 PM:
Yes, the on/off/on switch will work. It is just a normal switch with an off position (middle) in which nothing will be passed through. You can also add something to the other side of the switch so you have an even more versatile unit
You have the green light
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  #39  
Old 07.27.06, 8:07 AM
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Thanks for the info guys.
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  #40  
Old 07.27.06, 8:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by moody07747
Thanks for the info guys.
Let us know if you have any problems

Edit: oh and the new layout is nearly done, it will be up in about 1/2 an hour
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  #41  
Old 07.27.06, 8:39 AM
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*phew* took me ages to re-format it, but it should be a lot better now!

SD-1 mods comming friday/saturday - 4 to choose from!
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  #42  
Old 07.27.06, 8:41 AM
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Thanks for that update, ill let you know if i run into any walls

i got the switch and LED installed...check it out

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y22...%20One%20Mods/

I decided to put the LED one the other side because this switch is a little bigger than most switches for whatever reason...

anyways the LED terminal is just barely touching the Cord solder joint on the distortion POT...it's so hard to add to Boss pedals because they already pack them into a tiny case...

the wires for the switch and LED are just in the case...I'm waiting on parts so i put it together so i can use it until then...it should be finished some time next week.
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  #43  
Old 07.27.06, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by moody07747
Thanks for that update, ill let you know if i run into any walls

i got the switch and LED installed...check it out

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y22...%20One%20Mods/

I decided to put the LED one the other side because this switch is a little bigger than most switches for whatever reason...

anyways the LED terminal is just barely touching the Cord solder joint on the distortion POT...it's so hard to add to Boss pedals because they already pack them into a tiny case...

the wires for the switch and LED are just in the case...I'm waiting on parts so i put it together so i can use it until then...it should be finished some time next week.
Nice one

By the way, I replied to your thread in DIYStompboxes : http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforu...?topic=47534.0

I didn't realise it was the same bloke until just then when I tried to PM you to see if I had answered your question
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  #44  
Old 07.31.06, 5:27 PM
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OK i got all the caps in...finally..
and installed them all

one thing i didn't do was check after each part install...which i should have.

things went wrong on the first test....turns out i wired the LED for the seeing eye backwards...I swapped it around and it lit when the guitar was played.

now i'm still running it on stock DS1 settings and it sounds just like a stock pedal still.

now from the sounds of it...these mods should be changing the sound so much that i would notice the sound change easily.

it does not matter which position the switch is in...I'm getting stock sounds out of the pedal....only thing that happens is the new LED in the clipping diode section gets turned on or off...

any ideas on where to start with the audio probe or the meter?

i'm looking to get the most distortion out of this pedal as i can. I have a book i just downloaded so i will look into that now because i was reading about the LED(s) in place of the clipping diode(s).

ill change a few more things around there to get more distortion but only if these ultra/eye mods don't do that.

thanks for the help
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  #45  
Old 07.31.06, 5:29 PM
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BTW, in the switched mod...is D5 still in or taken out?

i took it out....
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